Traveling to Chitral

Police registration in Chitral

Before entring the Kalash valleys it is necessary to register with police at the DPO office. Otherwise the police follows the tourists in the valleys and ask them to go back to the city for registration.

Trekking in the Kalash valleys

Though the trekking routs are not very difficult to follow but it is very likely to meet leopards and shepherd dogs and snakes. Besides all this during the bad wheather there are land slidings and avalanches.

Temples and altars

Women are not allowed to go the high places of worship and on the roof of the temple. But for foreigners it is not possible to distinguish between a house and a temple because there seems not much difference between them. women can entre inside the temple and take photographs but can not climb up on the roof of the building.

Bashali the maternity house

according to the kalash traditions it is forbidden for men and even for women during their normal days to entre this building or even to touch the walls of this building. sometimes people cross these limits because of having less information or because of not having native guide.this is because the Kalash believe in the concept of pure and impure.

Beware in Kalash valleys

Kalash altars and holy places could only be visited by male tourists not by females because women are not allowed to these sacred places and it is strictly forbidden for them.In addition, there are some places like Bashali, Bashalini (Menstruation House) where the males are not allowed.

Avoid Night Travel to Chitral from Peshawar

Chitral’s accessible to rest of Pakistan by road as well as by plane.There’re daily flights to Chitral, which’re operated by PIA but a reservation’s necessary before leaving for Chitral, almost 45 minutes and 50 US $ each, but the flights’re subject to weather.There’re night coaches to Chitral from Peshawar but they’re not safe and pretty fatiguing and on the other hand it’s highly recommended to make the trip during the daylight.You’ll enjoy the trip, while having the glimpse of natural assets during the trip over Lowari Pass 3200 m.So From Peshawar, early in the morning from Haji Camp Bus StandPeshawar to Temergera, 3 hrsTemergera to Dir, 2 hrsDir to Chitral 4 hrs over Lowari Pass 3200 m, in a land cruiser .Enjoy The Marvels of Pakistan,

Police Registration or Permit to Travel

Foreigners must register themselves in the Chitral Police, Foreigner Branch, where they will be given a permit, which they will need while traveling inside and going out of Chitral at the Police and Border Security force check points.When they will get to Dobazh Border Check Point, a fee of 200 Rs for foreigners will be charged as a tax to Kalash valleys.This permit'll be demanded whether you trevl inside Chitral or going out.

Spread love not the Materialism

Kalash has been living in the remote western valleys of Chitral for centuries and exactly saying something about their past, is a bit difficult because whoever came here, did a little paper work and expressed his viewpoint but one thing is sure that they had ruled some major parts of Chitral and Afghanistan in past, it has also been proved by some of the local historians.During the visit to Kalash valleys (Romboor, Bamborate, Birir) the foreign and local tourists give money to children and especially to girls for taking snaps, which is disastrous to their culture, social system and religion.Tourism has brought changes in shape of materialism, money race, modern way of living, as dark aspects of city life and these people were away from these evils for a few decades back but as soon as tourism approached these valleys, the negative ideas have also penetrated.It is visible from the disastrous change in their architecture and life style, due to the menaces of tourism, money race, bad media approach and conversion.When I visit these brothers, sisters, uncles and their families (Kalash Families) with my foreign friends, with respect and love, I distribute candies and sweets among the children; I avoid paying money, which is to my mind, a better way to preserve their culture.Respect them, seek permission before entering a house and especially for taking photos and avoid paying money to them.Kalash valleys for TouristsKalash altars and holy places could only be visited by male tourists not by females because women are not allowed to these sacred places and it is strictly forbidden for them.In addition, there are some places like Bashali, Bashalini (Menstruation House) where the males are not allowed..

  

Khowar language

Khowar also called Chitrali, is a language spoken by over 400,000 people in Chitral and some valley in Gilgit Baltistan (including the Yasin Valley,  Phandar and Gupis), and in parts of Upper Swat. Speakers of Khowar have also migrated heavily to Pakistan's major urban centres with Islamabad, Lahore and Karachi having size-able populations. It is spoken as a second language in the rest of Gilgit and Hunza. 

Khowar has been influenced by Iranina Languages to some degree than other Dardic languages and has less Sanskritic elements than Shina or the Kohistani languages. Colonel Biddulph (Tribes of the Hindoo Koosh) was amongst the first westerners to study Khowar and claimed that further research would prove Khowar to be equally derived from Zend Old Persian and Sanskrit.

The Norwegian Linguist Georg Morgenstierne wrote that Chitral is the area of the greatest linguistic diversity in the world. Although Khowar is the predominant language of Chitral, more than ten other languages are spoken here. These include Kalasha-mun, Palula, Dameli, Gawar-Bati, Nuristani, Yidgha, Burushaski, Gujar, Wakhi, Kyrgyz, Persian and Pashto. Since many of these languages have no written form, letters are usually written in Urdu, Pakistan's national language.

Written Khowar

Khowar has been written in the Arabic Nasta'liq script since the early twentieth century, prior to that the administrative and literary language of the region was Persian and works such as poetry and songs in Khowar were passed down in oral tradition. Today Urdu and English are the official languages and the only major literary usage of Khowar is in poetry composition. Khowar has also been written in the Roman script since the 1960's. Badshah Munir Bukhari and the DirectorKhowar Academy, Rehmat Aziz Chitrali worked on the language and its family.

Shandur Polo Festival

Shandur Polo Festival

The world’s Highest Polo Ground

Imaginative overview

Just for a moment race up your horses of imagination and reach a place where there are the highest mountains around you. There is nothing around you except high peaks and a grassy flat ground beneath you. There are no trees. The sky seems very close to you. You have the feeling that you can touch the sky. There is a light cold breeze blowing. When you inhale the air that does feel so pure and clear. When you look at the grassy ground, an idea comes into your mind. You think that the conditions are ideal for something that would entertain, refresh and introduce you and your place to the world. But what to do? Then you take a view of the culture of the area. The bravery of the people, available resources and traditions inspire you and you think that the place is ideal to have Polo here. Now give a rein to your horses of imagination. Just pack your bag and reach Shandur to have the remarkable memories of your life in the highest polo ground of the world.

History of Polo

Sometimes, imagination leads you to give birth to a big event or festival. It has been the history that the emperors and the rulers have imagined the peace and harmony with such kind beauties and blessings of the nature. Beauty of nature always gives you the soft feelings and games give you the power of decision and bit positive kind of rigidity. Both attributes are necessary to make a real human being. Polo is called the game of games.

Polo has its origin from Central Asia started back in 6th BC. At first it was a training exercise for the cavalry of King’s guards. Initially there were 100 players in each side. It was like a miniature battle. Polo became the national game of Persia (Iran), and then it spread to Arabian countries and later on in Tibet, China and Japan.

Geographical Introduction

Shandur pass is about 12,200 high above the sea level. It is located in Northern Areas of Pakistan. Shandur is a high mountain pass that connects Chitral to the Gilgit in Pakistan. Pass is a route between mountain ranges. At this place three mountain ranges, Hindukash, Pamir and Karakaram meet. This is the reason why it is called the Roof of the World. The Shandur Pass is flat, a plateau and can be crossed in late April and early November. People of Shandur speak Khowar language.

Shandur Polo Festival

In 1920s, the ruler of Moskuj (a place between Chitral & Gilgit) was told by his King to promote integration within his realm through a polo match among best players. Col Evelyn Hey Cobb, a polo player himself, introduced an idea of having a polo tournament in the Shandur Pass. They decided to have a tournament among the best teams of Chitral and Gilgit. From that day,every year there is a polo tournament played on Shandur Top between rival teams from Chitral and Gilgit. This polo tournament is held in July every year. This is being held since 1936 annually. Shandur polo ground is considered to be the highest polo ground in the world. Except polo there are other festivities like folk music, dancing and camping village are also set up.

Unique about Polo in Shandur

As you have read earlier that Shandur is the highest Polo ground of the world. This is at the height of 12,200 feet. Another thing is that the Polo is played here according to the old ancient rules. Theses are the rules set by the people who originally invented. You will find polo in its purest form here. Interesting about Shandur is that it is a No Tree zone.

History of Chitral

Chitral remained an independent state for centuries with its own culture and language. In the late nineteenth century it became part of British India. It was a princely state in 1947, which acceded to Pakistan in that year. The rule of the Mehtar came to an end in 1954 and power was henceforth exercised by the political agent posted at Chitral. The state was merged into Pakistan in 1969. The recorded history of Chitral is divided into six epochs as follows:

Iranian rule

The Achemeanian Empire of Persia was extended to these regions during 400 BC. Its more than two thousand years since this empire receded but its supremacy was so strongly established that many Persian cultural traits are still in practice in Northern Areas as well as few parts of Chitral. In some valleys surrounding Chitral such as Wakhan, Shaghnan, and upper parts of Chitral people speak Persian language. Even Khowar, which is the native language of the local people (Khow), contains much borrowing from Persian.Zoroastrianism, an Old Persian religion, has also left behind some of its traces in this area. Traditions also tell about leaving of dead bodies unburied in caves in the wilderness or in the hollow of trees. Such practices were specific in this religion. A festival on 21st March (Nouroz) the first day in Persian calendar still prevails in Chitral. It is celebrated in few valleys every year. (Israr Chitral A historical sketch)

Kushan rule

The Kushan dynasty established its rule in this area in 200 AD. In the second century Kanishka the most powerful emperor of Kushan dynasty had extended his rule all over Northern India, probably as far as south Vindyas and all over the remote region up to Khotan beyond the Pamir pass.

Chinese rule

The Chinese extended their influence in the 4th century AD and remained in power until the 8th century. The rock inscription of Pakhtoridini near Maroi refers to Chinese rule. Another inscription in Barenis refers to the Kushans. According to Sir Aurel Stien, the inscription says that Jivarman ordered to make the pertinent drawing of a stupa. Such rock carvings have created confusion for writers like Buddulph and many others to believe that Chitral formed part of the last Hindu Shahi ruler of Kabul. It’s also believed that the northern parts had embraced Islam by the end of 9th century when Arabs defeated Bahman, chief of the country. By the time of withdrawal of Arabs many people had accepted Islam. (Souvenir, 2nd Hindukush Cultural Conference, p.19-21)

Kalash rule

In the 11th century AD southern Chitral was invaded by the Kalash from Afghanistan, who occupied the country as far to the North as Barenis village, while the upper parts were under another chief Sumalik. some Kalash Chiefs Rojawai, such as Nagar Shah and Bala sing ruled Southern Chitral from 11th to 13th centuries A.D.

Rais rule

In the beginning of 11th century Shah Nadir Rais occupied southern Chitral and defeated the Kalash. Shah Nadir Rais extended his dominion from Gilgit to the present southern boundaries of Chitral. Rais family ruled over Chitral for about three hundred years when Katura family succeeded them.

During the Rais rule in Chitral its boundaries extended from Narsut in the extreme south of the state to Gilgit in the east. The rulers had an effective council of chiefs of the local tribes to run the affairs of the country. The ruler of this family also worked for the dissemination of the teachings of Islam in the state.There were no regular state forces to defend the state frontiers so the local headmen and chiefs called all the persons of their tribes to fight for the state under the collective defense system. The Mehtar (ruler) had friendly relations with the rulers of surrounding countries. (Baig, Hindu Kush study series vol. two)

Katur rule

The Katur succeeded the Rais dynasty in 1595. Muhtaram Shah I was the founder of Kature rule in Chitral, whose descendants ruled over Chitral until 1969 when the State was merged as a district of NWFP.During the rule of Amirul Mulk in 1895, Umra Khan the chief of Jandool crossed the Lawari pass and invaded lower Chitral. As a result, there was fierce fighting in which the Mehtar of Chitral and British officers were besieged in Chitral fort for 42 days. Troops from Gilgit and Nowshera came to the rescue of the besieged fort and the British rule was extended over entire Chitral in April 1895. Shuja ul Mulk emerged as the ruler after the war who ruled for 42 years until 1936.During the Pakistan movement there was a campaign in Chitral in favor of independence. The people backed all India Muslim League and Mehtar Muzafarul Mulk openly declared his backing to the Pakistan movement. In May 1947 H.H. Muzafarul Mulk informed the Viceroy about his intention to join the new state of Pakistan. The accession instrument was signed on November 7, 1947.